“July 8...came upon another large creek...Timber, melaleuca, palm and gum... This I have named the Katherine, in honour of the second daughter of James Chambers Esq.” “The view was beautiful.” Standing on the edge of a precipice, they were overlooking a deep creek with stringy bark trees, gums and the elegant fan palms, fifty feet high; their leaves resembling an immense feather; the gorge in the distance. “July 12 The Mary, Adelaide River...had great difficulty getting the horses across, the banks being so boggy.” They stopped for a day to shoe the horses; the grass all burnt. Clumps of bamboo from fifty feet high were now a feature and they saw kangaroos and “new birds...some with splendid plumage.” The marshy terrain and detouring around boggy patches was frustrating and mosquitoes made their nights a misery. Lunar observations told Stuart of their proximity to the coast – “I did not inform any of the party, except Thring and Auld that I was so near to the sea, as I wished to give them a surprise on reaching it...Crossed the valley and entered the scrub, which was a complete network of vines. Stopped the horses while I advanced a few yards to the beach and was gratified and delighted to behold the water of the Indian Ocean in Van Diemen’s Gulf before the party with the horses knew anything of its proximity. Thring who rode in front of me called out “The Sea” which so took them all by surprise and they were so astonished, that he had to repeat the call before they fully understood what was meant...they immediately gave three hearty cheers...I dipped my feet, and washed my face and hands in the sea, as I promised Governor MacDonnell I would do if I reached it...After all the party had some time on the beach, ... I had my initials cut on a large tree (JMDS)... Thus have I, through the instrumentality of Divine Providence, been led to accomplish the great object of the expedition.” Next day (July 25) they “selected one of the tallest trees, Katherine River shall leave everything we can possibly do without – even boots and clothes.” This included Mr Waterhouse’s meticulously collected botanic specimens. “August 15 I was seized with a violent pain...It darted through my body like lightning...I had to halt the party, and was lifted from the saddle completely powerless; I thought my career in this world was coming to a close ...I had got mixture of laudanum and other strong aromatic tinctures, had it sought for and took a strong dose...” The years and months of inadequate food and gruelling work now told on him. Stuart was very ill with scurvy, his teeth loose, and gums so painful, he could hardly eat, travelling by day was torture and his sight was affected. “Even though the moon is full and shining bright and full to others, to me it is darkness. I am now quite incapable of taking observations at night.” He was thankful his Lunar Observation Book health had held until reaching the ocean. Thring and King (being the best bushmen after Stuart) now went ahead scouting for the main party. “August 25...arrived at Daly Waters...Got all the weak horses through, which is more than I expected.” “August 30 Newcastle Waters Once more have I returned, stripped the lower branches and fixed the flag” that they had carried over two thousand miles. The ceremony took place exactly nine months after leaving Adelaide. The long journey back now began, contending with mosquitoes, bogged horses and stony rises. Further on, the natives set fire to the grass near them. The party traded fish hooks, staying ever vigilant in case of attack. “August 5 The Katherine. It was as much as I could do to sit in the saddle this distance.” Stuart was ill. The journey of late had been rough and stony and so they stayed the weekend “resting horses.” It was frightening to see how rapidly the water had dried up, since they were there last. Stuart dare not stay longer and so several of the weakest horses had to be left behind. “I have had all the saddlebags overhauled and if I may so call it, into old country again...we were again visited by our black friends...One of the natives was an amusing little fellow...He imitated every movement we made, and burlesqued them to a high degree, causing great laughter to his companions and us.” Auld writes “On 4 September we started at six forty a.m. and proceeded to the Hawker, but there was no water in it. Thence we went to Watson Creek no water; thence to the Powell, Gleeson, and numbers of others that had water in them last year, but not a drop now. At six forty-five p.m. we arrived at our old camp; still no water, although there was a large deep hole when we were there before. We had to watch the horses during the night to prevent them from straying. Next morning we started at five forty for the Hunter. The horses 14 Australia’s Explorers’ Way
